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2017年1月7日星期六

Preview: Carpenter Brooklyn Field Watch

I first saw Neil Carpenter's watch on Instagram. Neil is an industrial designer with a studio in Park Slope, Brooklyn and his training showed in his watches. They displayed a clean and modern design with a clear link to the past. I liked what I saw and reached out, starting a friendly exchange of emails as he readied his crowd funding campaign. That was over a year ago. Plans changed, he explored different funding options, tinkered with the final product, and all the while his Internet followers waited. Today, at long last, the Carpenter Brooklyn Field Watch is ready for its Kickstarter launch.
The story of Carpenter Watches starts with an antique pocket watch - several of them, actually. Neil was 6 years old when he discovered his family’s collection of Elgin, Illinois, Waltham and Hamilton. These venerable American timepieces made a staggering impression. He could hardly believe that these beautiful and complex devices could be handed down the generations and still be useful tools. 

Today, Neil conducts research and product development for established brands, but his childhood fascination with watches is as strong as ever. "I wanted to create a practical timepiece that would suggest affluence and good taste, and become a cherished heirloom," says Neil. To my eye, I'd say he is on the right track. The vintage influence is apparent in the Field's design. The shape of the stainless steel case echoes that of a pocket watch, and the lugs are designed to resemble the wire that World War One soldiers welded to their pocket watches so they could strap them to their wrists. At 40mm, it is far smaller than a pocket watch but perfectly proportioned for a 21st century men's wrist watch. A double domed sapphire crystal completes the vintage look. 
It would have been easy for Neil to go the full retro route and adopt a vintage design for the dial as well, but the appeal of the Brooklyn Field Watch is its deft marriage of vintage charm and modern sensibility. The matte finish dial is reminiscent of both a classic type-A flieger and a field watch, but it is neither. The typography of the markers and numerals is much slimmer than one might expect. Tiny numerals on the outer edge of the dial mark the 60-minute/second index in increments of 5. It is here that you will find the characteristic triangle that usually replaces the 12 on a flieger dial, taking the 60 spot instead. C3 SuperLuminova graces the hands, further enhancing its day-to-day utility. A round, black-on-white date window replaces the 3. White baton hands and an arrow-shaped second hand complete the face. The text is similarly slim and restrained, with "Carpenter" and "Brooklyn, NY" in the upper half, and "Automatic" below. All the elements are balanced. The overall effect is clean and contemporary, more Bauhaus than battlefield
Neil chose the Miyota 821A automatic movement. While not as sexy as the silky smooth, high beat 9015, this 21 jewel unit is sensibly priced and reliable. Neil spiced it up a bit with a custom, cutaway rotor. Owners may view it at work through the sapphire exhibition case back. It is rated for 50m water resistance, which is sufficient for daily wear. 

The watch is offered in three versions: the M1 has a cream dial and a polished case, the M2 is black in a polished case, and the M3 is black in a brass case. All three come on a 20mm brown leather strap. I could easily see this watch on the stock strap with a suit during the week, and a leather NATO on the weekend.

The Carpenter launches on Kickstarter today for $495. Full retail will be $595. This is a sharp looking, highly versatile watch. It was a long time coming, but I'd say it was well worth the wait.
mehr sehen rolex replika und chopard gran turismo xl

2017年1月3日星期二

Preview: Vilhelm Elemental

It was not long ago that brass and bronze were considered big departures from the usual 316L stainless steel cases. Now, they are almost commonplace, and many micro brands are experimenting with more exotic materials. Singapore's Vilhelm Elemental, just launched on Kickstarter, takes this trend to a new level, combining forged carbon, ceramic, and titanium to create a unique timepiece.
Vilhelm is a partnership between watch enthusiast Nop Srinara and micro brand veteran Elshan Tang. Elshan is no stranger to innovative case design, having produced pieces in bronze, brass, forged carbon, titanium, and Damasteel for Zelos and Ventus watches. For the Vilhelm, Nop and Elshan started with an exceptionally strong, lightweight forged carbon central barrel with a cushion shape and marbled pattern. A steel module inside houses the movement. The angular, sculpted lugs and crown guards are formed from sandblasted Ti-6Al-4V grade 5 titanium. A square Zirconium Oxide (ZrO2) ceramic bezel with a brushed finish and sandblasted cutouts tops it off. The case measures 43mm wide and 14.5mm thick.
With so many materials in the case, you would naturally expect some diversity in the dial as well. The Elemental has four-layer sandwich construction, featuring a matte sandblasted ring and top plate over a sun ray base in Steel Grey, Rose Gold, and my personal favorite, Electric Blue. Unlike most sandwich dials that cut away only the markers, the upper plate on the Elemental has large sections removed, creating wide, pie piece openings so only narrow bridges remain to support the applied polished markers. A tidy Grecian helmet logo is the only branding on the dial are the hands are skeletonized and production models will include a SuperLuminova strip. A sapphire crystal tops it off.
Out back, a titanium case back and display window reveals the Miyota 9015 automatic. You know the movement: 24 jewels, hacking, hand winding, 40-hour power reserve, and a smooth 28k bph beat rate. This one has a laser engraved, gold PVD rotor. Both the case back and crown screw down but this is not a diver's watch. Water resistance is only 100m, which is still perfectly suitable for daily wear. The site contains no description of the strap, but it is 24mm between the lugs and extends the full width of the lugs, Bell & Ross style.

Pre-order pricing starts at $599, which is a fair deal for such a unique piece. Check it out on Kickstarter until April 30, 2016.

Pictures courtesy of Vilhelm Watches.

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